You can feel it. You can smell it. Spring
is in the air. Oh, to be sure, we aren't finished with cold
weather in many parts of the country, but it won't be long before
we will be ready to head out trail riding or be off on the spring
horse show circuit.
It's time to take a good
look at our equine companion or companions and find out if they
are as ready as we are for another riding season. If they are show
horses, they probably are ready. Today's level of competition
demands that these horses be kept show-ready 12 months a year.
But what about that
casual riding horse? Has he gotten that much attention all winter?
Or have we been guilty of benign neglect? You know the kind. It
isn't that we don't feed and water the horses, it's just that when
one leaves for work in the dark and gets home in the dark, it's
sometimes hard to do the little extras, like checking the hair
coat, taking a look at hooves, and remembering to de-worm on
schedule.
Regardless of the type of
care your horse has had during the past winter, some special
attention is called for as spring arrives. We must address these
issues so that we can travel to area shows or trails:
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Immunization,
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Nutrition,
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Checking for skin
problems,
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Checking the teeth,
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Hoof care,
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Parasite control,
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Starting an appropriate
exercise program,
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Training,
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Breeding soundness (if
we are going that route), and
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Getting the necessary
tests (such as a Coggins).
Those 10 areas are
important, but there are two others that demand attention although
they don't involve the horse itself. One is riding equipment and
the other is the trailer in which we plan to haul the horse, plus
the vehicle that will pull it.
Here, in random order,
are the above subject areas and some tips on how to better prepare
your horse(s) for spring.
Immunization
We start our discussion
with immunization because with the invasion of West Nile virus (WNV),
it has taken on added significance. Obviously, there are more
maladies against which we should immunize than WNV, but this
disease has become an increasing threat within the past few years.
As of Dec. 31, 2002, the
Center for Disease Control reported 3,873 human cases in 39 states
and Washington, D.C., of which 246 were fatal. The median age was
56, and the median age for fatalities was 78 years old. There were
14,717 reported equine cases affected in 40 states, with 20-30%
who died or were euthanized. Currently only Alaska, Arizona,
Hawaii, Nevada, and Oregon are officially free of the disease.
In addition, WNV has been
identified in the Canadian provinces of Manitoba, Saskatchewan,
Ontario, and Quebec. The disease's spread westward has been so
rapid since being confirmed in this country four years ago that
during 2002 alone, it showed up in 14 states where it had not been
previously reported. These included California, Colorado, Kansas,
Minnesota, Montana, Nebraska, New Mexico, North Dakota, Oklahoma,
South Carolina, South Dakota, Texas, West Virginia, and Wyoming.
This data is presented to
demonstrate how rapidly this disease has spread in four years, and
to underline the importance of immunizing your horses against it.
Is the available vaccine
100% effective? Unfortunately, the answer is no; however, no
vaccine on the market is ever 100% effective. There have been
cases reported where horses which received both the initial shot
and the booster shot have contracted the disease and, in some
instances, died from it. However, it's the first line of defence
and the best one we have at the moment. Even humans don't have a
vaccine. The important thing to remember is that there's a time
lag between immunization and protection, so it is important that
the vaccine be administered in advance of the mosquito season.
Allen Preston, DVM,
manager of Veterinary Field Services for Manitoba Agriculture and
Food, explains that the vaccine is a killed virus vaccine that
requires two doses in the initial stages to build up protective
antibody levels (foals require three doses). The two doses are
administered at an interval of three to four weeks, with
protective immunity developing two to four weeks after the second
vaccination.
Thus, it becomes apparent
that the vaccination program for WNV should begin well in advance
of mosquito season, which varies geographically. The duration of
immunity after vaccination for WNV is unknown. It behooves horse
owners to establish a close working relationship with their
veterinarians to determine the best time to vaccinate, not only
for WNV, but for other diseases as well.
Following are some other
vaccinations that are recommended by the American Association of
Equine Practitioners (AAEP) as presented in its Guidelines for
Vaccination of Horses, available at
www.aaep.org/members/AAEP_vacc_guide.pdf.
Tetanus--The
vaccine protects against deadly neurotoxins that can enter the
body through wounds and cause convulsions and death. This disease
is also known as lockjaw. Adult non-vaccinated horses normally
respond well to a series of two doses of tetanus toxoid given
three to six weeks apart and followed by an annual booster. With
some young horses, a third shot in the initial series might be
recommended.
Equine Influenza--The
AAEP recommends that all horses be vaccinated against equine
influenza unless they live in an isolated facility that is totally
enclosed. The intranasal vaccine now on the market has made
vaccinating easier and more effective. Because there are varying
protocols for vaccinating horses for influenza based on age,
exposure, and other factors, a veterinarian should be consulted
and an overall immunization program designed for each individual
horse. Remember that show horses which are exposed to numerous
horses at events will need to be vaccinated more often. Consult
your veterinarian.
Equine Herpesvirus--This
malady can cause mares to abort and all horses to develop serious
neurological disease and/or respiratory tract disease. Show horses
in particular need to be vaccinated every three to four months.
The AAEP recommends that all pregnant mares be vaccinated during
the fifth, seventh, and ninth months of gestation. Primary
vaccination of foals involves administering three doses of the
vaccine three to four weeks apart, beginning at four to six months
of age. Again, there are variations, so consult your veterinarian.
Potomac Horse Fever--The
AAEP says vaccination for Potomac horse fever might be called for
in areas where there have been outbreaks. There are still
questions about the effectiveness of the vaccine. If vaccination
is done, the AAEP suggests a primary series of two doses
administered three to four weeks apart. The vaccine manufacturer
also recommends revaccination at six- to 12-month intervals.
Equine
Encephalomyelitis (sleeping sickness)--There are three
varieties of this disease and vaccines are available to prevent
them. Western equine encephalomyelitis (WEE) has been found
primarily in western and mid-western states, while EEE (the
Eastern variety) has been found mainly in the eastern,
southeastern, and some southern states. The third variety,
Venezuelan equine encephalomyelitis (VEE), has been found in
Central and South America, but not in the United States. After the
initial series of shots to prevent WEE and EEE (and VEE if your
horse lives in Central or South America), there should be annual
vaccinations. EEE, WEE, VEE are all transmitted by mosquitoes. If
you are in an endemic area (for example, Florida or other
southeastern states), you might have to vaccinate more frequently
(two to three times per year). Consult with your veterinarian to
develop a specific vaccination program for your horse(s).
Rabies--This is
not a common equine disease, but horses can pass this along to
humans, who could die from the exposure. This disease is
preventable with vaccination. Don't forget to vaccinate dogs and
cats to prevent the spread of the disease.
There are other diseases
against which some horses should be vaccinated in certain locales,
but the ones listed here seem to be of prime concern to most horse
owners.
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TIP 1
Many horse owners work together
with their veterinarians and obtain vaccines so the owner
can give the shots. If you are not very experienced in
giving shots, don't do it. Let the veterinarian handle it.
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Nutrition
When we ride a horse on a
regular basis, we have to make certain that he is getting enough
nutrients to provide the strength and energy to take us on trail
rides or around the show ring. Where a problem can arise is when
the horse is turned out for the winter and not used. Then it
becomes easier to ignore his condition.
Some horses graze large
winter pastures, others eat only hay, and still others are fed
both hay and a grain supplement. But how do we know if the horse
is in the correct condition to withstand the stresses of cold
weather, snow, wind, and sleet?
Researchers have provided
us with
a good system known as body condition
scoring. Much of the groundbreaking work on developing this system
was done at Texas A&M University. The system rates horses from 1
through 9. Here, in brief form, is how the body condition score
works.
1--Horse is
thin, emaciated.
2--Very thin.
3--Thin, with ribs and backbone easily discernible.
4--Moderately thin with a faint line of ribs discernible.
5--Moderate with ribs not discernible, but they can be
easily felt.
6--Moderately fleshy with fat around the tailhead and fat
beginning to be deposited along the sides of the
withers, behind the shoulders, and along the sides of the neck.
7--Fleshy, often with a crease down the back.
8--Fat with a crease down the back and a noticeable
thickening of the neck.
9--Extremely fat with bulging fat in areas like the tail
head, along the withers, behind the shoulders, and along the
neck.
There is about a 45-pound
(20.4 kg) difference between each of the body scores. Researchers
at Purina Mills maintain that the ideal body condition score for a
performance horse is 5. The same could be said for the wintering
trail or pleasure horse.
By monitoring a horse's
body condition throughout the winter months and changing his diet
accordingly, one can avoid coming into the spring with a horse
that is grossly overweight or underweight. This is important
because it takes a horse time to put on pounds, and time to take
them off. There is also the danger that a sudden change in diet
can bring on a bout of colic, laminitis, or both.
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TIP 2
Keep your horse as close to a
body condition score of 5 as possible throughout the entire
year. The ideal way to check on an animal's condition is to
weigh him regularly. Not everyone has the equipment to do
this, but a weight tape that can be placed around a horse's
girth gives a good indication of his weight. And, as all
equine nutritionists will say, be sure you know how much you
are feeding your horse by weight of grain and hay; not by
coffee can or flake. |
Skin Problems
During the cold winter
months, nature provides the horse with a warm coat comprised of
long, thick hair. The hair is designed to protect the skin from
wind, rain, and cold. It does it in good fashion unless it is
compromised in some way.
There are many ways in
which both the hair coat and skin of a horse can become
compromised. The animal might develop lice, rain rot, ringworm, or
a host of other problems.
Complicating the issue is
the fact that, like humans, horses can suffer from allergies that
produce skin problems or dermatitis. Dermatitis can be caused by
agents such as external irritants, burns, allergens, trauma, and
bacterial, viral, parasitic, or fungal infections. Dermatitis can
also be associated with systemic diseases. Horse owners should be
alert to horses scratching and rubbing their bodies against hard
objects, since this is one of the outward signs of dermatitis.
When a horse suffers from
dermatitis, the important thing is to determine the underlying
cause. If you don't know or aren't sure, consult with your
veterinarian. Treatment would be vastly different, for example, if
the horse were suffering from a fungal infection than it would if
the problem were the result of an allergy. If you live in a rainy,
humid part of the country and feel bumps along your horse's back
and spots where the hair is missing, it could be rain rot. In
another part of the country, finding spots where hair is missing
could indicate a form of ringworm.
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TIP 3
At least once a week, rub your
hands over your horse's coat, fluffing up the hair in the
process to determine if skin problems exist.
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Teeth
In order for a horse to
properly chew his food, he must have teeth that function properly.
With a horse, proper function is more difficult than one would
think.
First, the equine tooth
is hypsodont, which means that it continually erupts or grows out
of the gum, says F. Jack Easley, DVM, of Simpsonville, Ky., an
equine dentistry expert who has spoken on the subject at
conventions. As the surface wears down sort of like a piece of
chalk, more of the tooth is pushed out. As time goes on, the
"chalk" becomes shorter with use.
Second, there's the
matter of the upper jaw being about 30% wider than the lower jaw.
As the horse grinds his food between upper and lower teeth, there
often is uneven tooth wear and the possibility that sharp edges
will develop on the outside of the upper cheek teeth and the
inside of the lower cheek teeth. A variety of other problems, such
as retained caps, sharp points, hooks, and ramps can also develop,
says Easley.
And when these problems
occur, the horse can't properly chew his food, which quickly
becomes a losing proposition for horse and owner. The horse loses
nutritive value from food that isn't being masticated properly,
and the owner loses money purchasing feed that doesn't provide the
maximum nutritional benefit for the horse.
Some horse owners feel
that the only way to make certain that a horse's teeth are
functioning properly is to have them floated annually. Floating
means to file off the rough edges so that the teeth grind together
correctly. Easley and others in his profession stress the
importance of regular and routine dental examinations so that
problems can be detected and resolved before they compromise the
horse's health.
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TIP 4
Watch your horse eat to
determine if he is "quidding," or has food falling from his
mouth while he eats. A quidder usually has dental problems
that should be dealt with immediately. |
Hooves
"No foot, no horse."
We've all heard--and believed--that old refrain in one form or
another many times in our lives. Yet, we often approach foot care
as if it weren't true. We might be good about having the farrier
out on a regular basis during the riding and performing season,
but when the horse is put up for the winter, we often turn our
backs on our equine partners' feet.
True, the hooves don't
grow as fast in cold weather as they do when temperatures are
warmer, but they do continue to grow. If we ignore hoof care in
winter, there is a danger that the hoof will get out of balance
and hoof cracks will develop. Or, they might get so long and
uneven that chunks of hoof will break off. This is a particular
danger when shoes aren't removed and pull free during daily wear
and tear.
The horses most at risk
from developing hoof cracks as the result of improper care, says
Steve Mellin, Certified Farrier, who teaches a farrier course at
Colorado State University, are stalled horses. He recommends that
stalled horses have their feet cleaned thoroughly each day to
prevent bacterial build-up that can cause problems such as thrush.
Mellin also recommends that stalled horses be led frequently
through a wet and muddy area to give the hooves an opportunity to
absorb moisture.
He says that water is
superior to any hoof dressing in helping maintain correct moisture
content in the hoof. The secret, he indicates, is to find the
correct balance. Too much water can weaken the hoof wall.
Many owners don't think
that it is necessary to have farriers trim their horses' feet
during the winter months. They operate on the theory that hard,
frozen ground will wear down the hoof if the horse is kept
outdoors. The problem with that theory is that the hoof might
indeed wear down, but it might not wear down evenly. And Mellin
says that when that happens, the foot is out of balance and cracks
will occur.
Complicating any hoof
problem is the length of time required to get it healed. The hoof
of the average adult horse grows at the rate of about
three-eighths of an inch per month, so if he breaks off an inch of
toe it will take almost three months to grow back. Keeping a
horse's feet healthy is better than letting them get in bad shape
and then dealing with a lengthy recovery period.
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TIP 5
Have the farrier out regularly,
even during the winter. Also, at least once per week on
horses kept outside, pick up all four feet, examine them,
and clean them. |
Parasite Control
Internal parasites are
thieves--they steal from both horse and owner. They rob the horse
of much-needed nutrition and the owner of at least some of the
money he or she spends on feed that is doing the horse no good.
Most veterinarians will
recommend that horses be de-wormed at least four to six times per
year. Many practitioners recommend de-worming foals and weanlings
every 30 to 60 days for the first year of their lives.
The timing of de-worming
is critical, says Craig R. Reinemeyer, DVM, PhD, president of East
Clinical Research in Knoxville, Tenn. De-worming is most
effective, he says, when it's done during peak parasite
infestation.
Many horse owners who
live in cold climates mistakenly believe that cold weather breaks
the parasitic cycle of life and, for that reason, they welcome the
first freeze. It doesn't work that way, says Reinemeyer. Cold has
little effect on survival of parasite eggs, but heat does.
The parasite eggs, he
says, are similar to plant seeds in that they flourish at
temperatures that range from 45-85°F. When temperatures push above
85°F, the eggs often are destroyed.
What this means, in
Reinemeyer's opinion, is that de-worming programs should begin in
early autumn and continue through February or March.
However, in a densely
stocked pasture or one in which the grass is eaten down to the
ground and horses are grazing near manure, then a de-worming
program might need to be run every two months all year round.
Consult with your veterinarian about what is the best program in
your area, and stick closely to his or her recommendations.
The magnitude of the
parasite problem is underscored by the fact that there are more
than 150 types of internal parasites known to affect horses.
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TIP 6
During winter, avoid feeding hay
on the ground amid manure where parasite eggs can be
ingested. Second, because geography has a lot to do with
what types of parasites are endemic in a particular area,
consult your veterinarian about an appropriate de-worming
program for your particular locale and climate, then stick
to it. |
Exercise and Conditioning
There is always that
temptation on the first balmy spring day to saddle up your
favorite horse and head out onto the trail for a couple of hours,
loping across awakening meadows and climbing hills that afford
great views because of the lack of foliage.
All of this is fine,
providing that you properly prepared the horse before asking him
to exert himself. If the horse has been put up for the winter, he
has been a couch potato. He has walked from the feed bunk to the
water tank and back again. Oh, there might have been a gallop
across the pasture on occasion if he happened to be spooked by
something or feeling frisky, but that has been about it in the
exercise department.
If we take our couch
potato out and ask him to exert himself, we're setting the stage
for a variety of possible injuries of muscles, ligaments, tendons,
and even bones. The horse has to be rounded into good riding
condition gradually, not suddenly.
Here's a conditioning
approach espoused by the Upper Midwest Endurance and Competitive
Rides Association (UMECRA). The entire program would not be
necessary for the average horse owner who doesn't plan to compete
in competitive trail rides or endurance races, but following what
UMECRA suggests for the first three weeks could be beneficial.
Week 1--Start
slowly, especially in the spring. Perhaps do some longeing and
ring riding. On Days 2 and 3, go for a pleasure ride on an easy
trail. On Day 4, rest. Starting with Day 5, continue with up to 45
minutes daily of walking and slow trotting. Back off if the horse
shows signs of stress.
Week 2--Keep
workouts easy and interesting. Intersperse trail riding with ring
work and longeing. By midweek, you should be able to ride up to
one hour, slowly. On shorter rides, begin asking for some
extension of both the trot and walk. Vary terrain with easy hills,
but don't overdo it.
Week 3--Two
one-hour workouts should be done under saddle this week with the
first being about five or six miles. The second one-hour workout,
a day later, should be shorter and faster with some extended
trotting and a little cantering or loping. Then allow a day of
rest and longe the following day. By the end of the week, seek to
cover seven miles in one hour.
This basic conditioning
program should have most horses fit for trail riding or performing
in about three weeks.
After a workout, always
walk your horse back to the starting point. This does two
things--first, you don't have a horse which wants to race back to
the barn, and second, he'll be cooled out when you get home.
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TIP 7
Condition your horse for your
preferred equine discipline before the season starts
to prevent overexertion and injury. (Another tip--don't
forget to get your own body in shape!) |
Training
There is nothing more
disheartening than to look forward all winter to another season of
riding and having your horse pitch you to the ground that first
trip out. If you have any doubts about your horse and his level of
training for what you want to do, you should take him to a
training facility and have him ridden and evaluated before the
riding season begins. Not only might this prevent injury to you
and your horse, but it will enhance your riding enjoyment.
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TIP 8
Training horses is a very
specialized field and not one in which the novice owner
should dabble. Don't be proud. If you and your horse need
help, ask for it from a reputable trainer. Your safety and
the safety and future of your horse depend on it.
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Breeding Soundness
A great many horse owners
are not--and will not be--in the breeding business, but a number
of you are. If you are planning to breed your mare, don't wait
until the last minute to book her to a stallion. Also, you should
make certain that she is reproductively sound. The only way to
accomplish this is to have her examined by a veterinarian. This
topic has been covered extensively in previous issues of The
Horse. (See "Further Reading" section for references.)
If you want to breed your
horses, be sure that it is for the right reasons, such as a great
bloodline you want to perpetuate or a favorite mare you want to
replace. Managing a broodmare and raising a foal are challenging;
also, you should not add to the equine population without a sound
reason.
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TIP 9
If you're considering breeding a
horse, think about your reasons carefully and have a
breeding soundness exam done by the veterinarian early
enough to treat any problems. Also, don't wait until the
deadline to book a stallion for a mare. |
Paperwork
If you are planning to
trail ride in various parts of the country or travel to horse
shows, your horse will have to have a valid negative Coggins test
to show he doesn't have equine infectious anemia, and does have
current health papers. In the western United States, you must
travel with proper brand inspection papers to establish ownership.
Registration papers are usually only necessary if you are going to
show where you will use them to verify the horse's identity to the
show committee.
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TIP 10
Because regulations vary from
state to state, contact your state veterinarian and ask for
a printout of regulations for the states through which you
will be travelling. Get your health papers in order ahead of
time. |
These 10 areas are
important in getting a horse ready for the upcoming season, but we
should also add tack, trailer, and truck into the mix. Tack should
be examined to determine whether any repair work is needed before
being placed on a horse's back, and equipment used to convey him
from place to place needs to be reliable and safe for you and the
horse.
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